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A Queen Anne house prior to removing the replacement siding. Source: Bob Yapp

If your historic house or building has non-original, replacement siding, you may want to remove this siding and restore a more historically appropriate appearance to your structure. When you remove the replacement siding, you might even reveal original siding — around 90% of residential houses and commercial buildings with replacement siding still have their original exterior wood or masonry siding underneath. If you remove your replacement siding, you should make arrangements for the wood or brick exterior to be repaired, and the wood painted, within a year of removing the siding or slip cover. However, it is best to allow your wood exterior to dry out for two to three months before you paint it. If your original siding is missing, you can choose replacement siding that is more historically appropriate for your house or building.

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The same Queen Anne house during the replacement siding removal process. Notice how much of the original wood remains. Source: Bob Yapp

You can hire a contractor to remove your unwanted replacement siding or do it yourself by following the instructions below. You might also consider working with your local historic preservation advocacy group to do a house unveiling on your home. A house unveiling is a bit like a reverse barn raising. It can be a great event for your historic neighborhood as well as a boon for your own property.

Dispose of Your Non-Original Siding

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The Queen Anne house after the replacement siding has been removed. Compare this photo to the before photo; do you see all the detail that had been covered? Source: Bob Yapp

Before you start to remove your replacement siding, you should determine how to dispose of it. Your disposal options will depend on the type of replacement siding you have:

• Steel or aluminum. If your replacement siding or slipcover is steel or aluminum (a magnet won't stick to aluminum), you can sell it for scrap. You'll need a way to haul the scrapped siding to the scrap yard.
• Vinyl. If your replacement siding is vinyl, it will be more challenging to find a disposal option. Some larger communities have PVC recyclers, but they usually require a load to be larger than the amount from a single house. Check with your local landfill for regulations on disposing of PVC.
• Asphalt or a hard slate-like product. If your siding is asphalt or a hard slate-like product with wood grain or brick embossed onto the face, it could contain asbestos. Locate a regional laboratory where you can send samples to test for the presence of asbestos. If your siding does contain asbestos, you'll have to hire a certified and licensed asbestos abatement contractor to remove your siding to ensure your safety and that of your neighbors. Check with your local building inspector to determine the local, state and federal regulations that apply to asbestos removal.

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Commercial buildings have also had siding installed over the original masonry. Here a main street commercial building is having the metal siding removed. Again, notice how the original masonry and windows still exist. Source: Bob Yapp

Gather Your Tools, Equipment, and Materials

To remove the non-original siding or commercial slipcover from your historic house or building, you’ll need to gather the following tools, equipment and materials:

• Extension ladders, scaffolding or a hydraulic lift (these items can be rented)
• Step ladders
• Ground tarps
• 5-gallon paint bucket to put the nails in
• A truck or trailer
• A Dumpster
• 2-strap dust masks for you and your helpers
• Safety glasses
• Protective work gloves
• 16 ounce claw hammer
• Flat, “Blue Bar” type pry bar
• Multi-screwdriver (with both Phillips and slotted tips)
• Nail pouch
• Roll of duct tape

Remove Non-Original House Siding or a Commercial Slipcover

Follow the steps below to remove the non-original siding or commercial slipcover from your historic house or building.

Step 1

Call any utility companies that have wires attached to the outside of your house or building. The utility companies can either temporarily remove the wires or put a protective covering over them so you don't get electrocuted.

Step 2

Set up your ladders, scaffolding or a hydraulic lift on one side of your structure. Follow all manufacturer safety requirements. Also, lay tarps on the ground around the area where you will be working.

Step 3

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As described in Step 3, wrap duct tape around the heal of a flat pry bar to protect the wood siding. Source: Bob Yapp

Wrap the heel of the flat pry bar with duct tape. The duct tape will act as a cushion to prevent damage to the wood or masonry as you pry off the siding.

Step 4

Before you begin, put on your safety glasses, gloves and a dust mask. Make certain no one is standing below you because you will be dropping the pieces of siding to the ground. Wear a nail pouch to collect nails and screws instead of tossing them on the ground. 

Step 5

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Here a woman is using a flat pry bar, with duct tape on the heel, to remove vinyl siding from a house. Source: Bob Yapp

Use the pry bar to remove the replacement siding from the highest points first: at the cornice, in the peaks and on the eaves. As you go, pull out all the nails used to fasten the replacement siding to the original exterior. Remove any old hooks or screws with a multi-screwdriver.

Step 6

If you find insulation attached to the back of some siding materials and you plan to recycle the siding for money, you'll need to remove this insulation. Most siding also has building paper under it that you should put into the Dumpster.

Step 7

Work your way down the side until you've removed all the siding, nails, screws, insulation and building paper. Recycle your siding and/or dispose of all scrap materials.

Step 8

Begin wood and masonry repairs immediately. Allow your wood exterior to dry out for two to three months before you paint it.