Historic Diaries: James Doty, 1820
June 21, 1820: Storms at Pictured Rocks
Editor's Note:
On this day the voyagers passed Michigan's famous Pictured Rocks. Schoolcraft recorded that after the overnight storms, "A perfect calm now reigned in the atmosphere, and we continued the voyage with renovated spirits. On going three leagues, we reached the commencement of the Pictured Rocks,(La Portaille of the French Voyageurs,) a series of lofty bluffs, which continue for twelve miles along the shore, and present some of the most sublime and commanding views in nature. We had been told, by our Canadian guide, of the variety in the colour and form of these rocks, but were wholly unprepared to encounter the surprising groupes of overhanging precipices, towering walls, caverns, water falls, and prostrate ruins, which are here mingled in the most wonderful disorder, and burst upon the view in ever-varying and pleasing succession."
Schoolcraft also made this sketch of Pictured Rocks.
Being a geologist, he continued writing at great length. He concluded by noting, "We came to Grand Island at a seasonable hour in the evening, and encamped on the margin of its deep and landlocked harbor. Our camp was soon filled with Chippewas from a neighboring village. They honored us in the evening with a dance."
Location: Grand Island, Mich.
View Doty's handwritten manuscript of this page
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At 10 o'clock last night the most tremendous storm arose I ever witnessed. It came on from the N. W. and directly on the shore where we were encamped. From the continued flashes of lightning the Lake appeared on fire. The wind was so strong it was with the utmost difficulty we kept up our tent — the Governors was blown down and also one or two others. Lightning struck several times near us. The waves rolled up to the mouth of our tent, and completely over the Governors wetting all his baggage and the gentlemens with him. I sat at the mouth of our tent until after 3 to see that the waves did not reach our baggage.
Between 10 & 11 A. M. we embarked. In 9 miles we came to what are the pictured (portaille) rocks. These are 12 miles in extent. They are graywacke, or sand and pebbles cemented by lime; and the minerals and other matter between the strata have run out, and given the rocks various and very singular colours. A green like that running from copper is seen in several places. The appearance of Iron is more frequent. These rocks are generally from 2 to 800 feet high. They present the most appalling spectacle I ever witnessed. From the deep caverns underneath a roar like that of cannon is continually reverberated, occasioned by the waves rolling in. In passing along under them the sensations exceed those excited on viewing the Cataract of Niagara. About midway of the rocks a stream of water is seen pouring over a perpendicular bank 70 feet high. The sheet is about 10 feet wide.
Passing this we soon came to an arched rock separated apparently entirely from the bank. It is 10 feet from the waters edge to the top of the bank on which it is based the arch then rises about 35 feet. On the right supporting the arch 2 pillars well formed are seen, on the left but one was discovered — the woods however obstructed the view. The arch appeared smooth and elegantly shaped. On its top and under it pine trees were growing — one very large directly on its centre. Around this the mountain made a bend of several miles leaving a sandy bottom towards the lake — this lies to the right of the arch. The mountains rise close upon the rear of the arch gradually to their usual heighth & are timbered with birch, beech & maple. This arch we named the Doric Arch from the resemblance which it bears to that order of architecture. The arches under these rocks are very frequent. The largest is under the first high rock after leaving the Doric arch. Immediately after this is another passing through the base of one of the highest cliffs, and under which we might have passed with our canoe to the opposite side with safety.
Passing the last bluff point of these rocks, we approach Grand Island, 6 miles distant. I think however we do not lose sight of this range. About the middle of the Island we came to a bay and encamped before sun set. A little below this on the main land was a bay about 2 miles deep -- I never saw an harbor as well formed and guarded as this. No wind can reach it… The bay is about 2 miles deep, and something in the shape of one corner of a half moon. I should think the land on this Island is fertile — some of it is oak opening — some is covered with maple & beech, other parts with pine. A current is found setting down between the Island and main. Visited an Indian lodge & saw a canoe on the stocks. It was swung at the ends on two stakes, and two or 3 on each side towards the middle to support it. They commence building at the top.
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