Historic Diaries: James Doty, 1820
June 24, 1820: Separated in a Gale
Editor's Note:
They were lucky to get across the bay alive. "This is often a dangerous passage when the weather is not perfectly settled," Schoolcraft wrote later, "and was found so in the present instance. On turning point Abbaye we found a fresh breeze blowing directly ahead, but not apprehending any increase, and anxious to make as little delay as possible, we progressed up the bay the usual distance, and commenced the traverse without hesitation. When, however, only a league from land, the wind had increased to a strong breeze, which raised a considerable swell, and before we were half way across, the bay presented a sheet of foam, and our canoes were tossed about with scarcely the power of controlling them. A perfect gale prevailed, and every moment seemed to add to its violence. The swells broke frequently across our canoes, so that one hand was constantly necessary to bail it out, and we expected them to be broke in two at every succeeding swell. In this dilemma it appeared almost equally hazardous to turn back, or to progress, we were about an equal distance from either shore, with the wind blowing directly ahead; and the conductors of the different canoes were left to use their own discretion. Three, out of five canoes turned back, and reached the shore in safety, with some injury to the canoes. The other two, consisting of the Governor's and that under the command of Lieutenant Mackay, to which I was attached, after an exertion which exhausted the strength of every person on board, reached the mouth of Portage river, and encamped upon the beach before sun down. Distance 30 miles."
Location: near modern White City, Mich.
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We embarked 20 minutes before 6. The Thermometer last night stood at 70 [degrees]— this noon at 58. After passing out of the bay, 1 mile… From the 4 mile point we commenced a traverse across the bay steering S. [N. W.] to the entrance of the portage 8 miles. The bay after the point is called Keweenauneigh [Keweenaw].
In crossing, a violent gale of wind arose, and separated our little fleet. I never experienced so heavy a wind — the swells ran high dashing over our canoe — two or three from stem to stern. We were in imminent danger of breaking across them. Three of the canoes turned before the wind and ran their course back. The Gov's canoe having gone ahead of us about 1/2 an hour we were left alone, and without anyone on board possessed of the least knowledge of the shore we were steering to. After 3 hours of the hardest rowing & paddling, in which Mr. Schoolcraft & myself joined, we fortunately reached the shore at the entrance of the portage. I was wet 3 or 4 times from head to foot by the waves dashing over the canoe. I think were I again to pass this bay, I would never make the traverse in this place. Our steersman, who was a Frenchman, was less daunted than I expected he would have been.
We landed and found the Gov. & those with him had already arrived at the same place & encamped. This river is computed to be 21 miles from point au Bale, 45 miles from the bottom of the bay into which it empties, and 45 miles from the point which runs out above it into the lake, so that it is considered in the middle of a peninsula.
I noticed in range with the mouth of the river and the point which we left, a high bluff mountain, situate a number of miles back and to the left of the river. In crossing from that point to the river it is the best object that can be selected to steer to. The land to right appears low, and thinly timbered. Each side of the small bay into which the river empties the shore is bold — the banks are composed of a dark red sand stone. The waters of the river, which are of the same color, are seen far in the large bay. They are warm & very unpalatable. On retiring to rest large fires were built up, that those persons in the canoes which were driven back, might find our encampment. Here were several Indian graves the possessors of which it would appear by the crosses were of Roman Catholic faith.
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