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Historic Diaries: James Doty, 1820

June 27, 1820: To the Ontonagon Copper Country

Editor's Note:

Schoolcraft computed that the party had now traveled 416 miles from Mackinaw and in the last 10 days had averaged 46 miles per day, "a speed, which our voyageurs tell us, is seldom equalled in passing over the same route."


Of the Ontanogon River, he recorded that "Indians say they generally walk to its head in three or four days, but on account of numerous rapids, it is only ascended in canoes about thirty-six miles, and a portage then made to its source, which is in a small lake called Vieux Desert. This lake has also an outlet into the Menomonie river of Green Bay, and another into the Chippeway river of the Mississippi, by means of which the country is traversed in canoes by the traders and Indians."


Schoolcraft, as a geologist, was most interested in the copper to be found in the Ontonagon region: "This has been known from the earliest times, and is noticed by all the travellers of the region. La Hontan, Charlevoix, Henry, Carver, and McKenzie, have successively published accounts of it, which have served at various periods, to arrest the public attention, and to confer a notoriety upon the country, which it had otherwise certainly lacked. But amid a great many surmises respecting the extent of the mines, every little has been with certainly known.


"To ascertain how far these accounts are founded in truth, and to examine the mineralogy of the adjacent region, was among the primary objects of the present expedition, and on reaching the mouth of the river, the Governor determined to loose no time in exploring it. It was past three o'clock in the afternoon, when we entered the mouth of the river. The expedition was immediately encamped, and Indian guides procured, at the neighbouring village, and at six o'clock, we proceeded in two light canoes up the river, leaving the greater part of our force encamped at the mouth."

Location: Ontonagon, Mich.


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Everything being in readiness we embarked this morning before 4 o'clock… Having a fair strong wind we did not approach the shore but kept out in the lake. We arrived at the River Ontonagon a few minutes past 1 o'clock, having sailed 51 miles before breakfast!


Nine miles from the portage we passed Salmon Trout river, and six miles further Graverod's river. This is a small stream, and is only particularly noticed from a Trader by the name of Graverod being murdered on it many years since. His son now resides at Mackinac, an int[terpreter] in the Ind. Dept. Opposite its mouth are large flat rocks. Riviere au Mesiere is 12 miles farther, the Fire steel river 18 miles, and the Ontonagon 6 miles, making in the whole a distance of 51 miles.


We landed on the opposite side of the river to the Indian lodges, of which there are four or five very large, and had not completed our meal before the Indians had painted & dressed themselves, and crossed the river to pay us a visit. From fear they were rather shy at first, having as we learned, heard of our affair with the Indians at the Sault [see June 16].


We wished some of them to accompany us to the copper on this river. After a talk and some presents 4 of them consented, with whom, the Gov. Capt. Douglass, Mr. Schoolcraft, Doct. Wolcott, Lieut. Mackay and myself departed in two canoes (our smallest) up the river. We had proceeded about 4 miles when we came to a weir made by the Indians across the river, on which there were 6 Indians fishing for sturgeon. Here they set with a hook fastened on a long pole and when they feel a fish running against it, they draw it up suddenly which forces the hook, into the belly of the fish. In this manner they take great quantities, and in fact, the Indians around here appear to subsist entirely upon sturgeon. Still they are the most fleshy and best looking Indians I have ever seen. We obtained 3 sturgeon for a little tobacco, and proceeded on 2 ½ miles farther, and encamped at sun set. Sand flies and musquitoes in abundance.

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