Matting
This article originally appeared in Exchange, a
newsletter published by the Wisconsin Historical
Society. (Volume 25, Number
5, September/October 1983) It is the 12th in a
series of articles titled Conservation Corner. The
series features information about maintaining an
adequate environment for the storage and exhibition
of historical collections, employing proper collection
care techniques, and recording and cataloging historical
collections. This article was written by Tom McKay,
retired local history coordinator for the Wisconsin
Historical Society.
The third column in this series described a damaged 19th-century
sampler seen on exhibit in a local historical society. The
stained and deteriorated condition of the sampler was
attributed to lack of heat and humidity control within the historical
society building and to improper matting and framing. Virtually every
local historical society collection includes improperly matted and
framed objects. While fabric items, such as the sampler, are frequent
victims, even greater numbers of paper materials and photographs suffer
from improper matting and framing.
Many framed objects originally were backed with pine boards. Wooden
boards are highly acidic and the acids migrate into
fabric or paper, causing stains, embrittlement, and
deterioration. Occasionally historic items were framed
without a front mat or spacer that would prevent contact
with the front glass. During rapid changes in temperature
or humidity, moisture can condense on the glass and
soak into the paper or fabric at the point of contact.
In the case of the sampler, which was damaged by both
acidic boards and condensation on the front glass,
proper matting and framing would have prevented the severe staining
and extended its life. Proper matting begins with acid-free materials.
Non-buffered matboard made of 100-percent rag paper is safe for photographs,
fabrics, and paper materials. Photographs and paper items should be
hinged to their back mats. Use rice paste and choose from a variety
of Japanese tissue containing no wood pulp. Appropriate matboard,
Japanese tissue, and rice paste can be ordered from suppliers that
specialize in archival materials. Suppliers of archival materials
include:
University
Products
517 Main Street
P.O. Box 101
Holyoke, Massachusetts 01041-0101
1-800-762-1165
custserv@universityproducts.com
Metal Edge, Inc.
Archival Storage Materials
6340 Bandini Blvd.
Commerce, California 90040
1-800-862-2228
info@metaledgeinc.com
Framed items require front and back mats for support and protection. The back mat is a solid piece of matboard cut approximately 1/16 of an inch smaller than the dimension of the back opening of the frame. The front mat is a window cut from matboard. Its outside dimensions are the same as the back mat. The window opening is cut so that the front mat covers the margins of the item being framed. There is no single formula for determining the size of the window opening. This depends on the size and appearance of the item being framed. The front mat holds the item flat and separates it from the glass. Some framed items have no margins. In such cases four strips of matboard are cut to fit within the frame as spacers. These strips are equal in width to the inside lip of the frame and correspond in length to the top, bottom, and sides of the frame. Cutting matboard requires a special mat cutter (available through art supply stores) or a utility knife and a heavy metal straightedge. Measure the back opening of the frame to determine the size of the back mat and measure the item to be framed to determine the desirable margins for the front mat. Set the frame and the historic item aside before attempting to cut the mat. Matboard is tough and one slip of the knife could damage the item or frame if either is left on the work table. When cutting the mats, score each line several times rather than trying to cut through the matboard with one stroke.
After the mats are cut, paper items or photographs must be attached to the back mat with two hinges. If the back mat is larger than the item being framed, use strap hinges. Japanese tissue comes in several thicknesses so that the strength of the tissue hinges can be matched to the item being framed. Be sure to select a tissue with no wood pulp content. Make the hinges by folding the tissue and tearing along the creases. This method avoids the sharply defined edges made by scissors. This is especially important when framing thin paper items. Mix rice paste to a thick consistency and spread a light coat at one end of the hinge. This patch of paste should be 1/4 to 1/2 inch wide depending on the weight of the item. Adhere the hinges to the back of the photograph or paper item along the top edge. Position the item being framed in the center of the back mat. Spread a 1/2 inch width of paste on the under surface of the opposite end of the hinge and adhere the hinge to the back mat. The middle area of the hinge will have no paste on either side and the historic item will, in effect, be suspended on the back mat. When the paste is dry, attach the front mat to the back mat with a Holland cloth hinge along their inside top edges.
When an item being framed is the same size as its back mat, a folded hinge must be used. Place the back mat on the work table with its top edge butted against another sheet of matboard. Lay the item being framed face down on this sheet with its top edge against the top edge of the back mat. Again, fold and tear Japanese tissue to make hinges. Cover one side of the hinge with rice paste and place the hinge on the back mat and the item being framed. The hinge should be placed with approximately 1/2 inch adhering to the item being framed. When the paste is thoroughly dry, turn the item over and it will be attached to its back mat by the folded hinges. Attach the front mat to the back mat with a Holland cloth hinge along their top outside edges. Be sure that this hinge does not extend on the front mat beyond the inside lip of the frame. Spacer strips used in place of a front mat are too narrow to hinge to the back mat. Simply attach the four strips to each other at the corners with Japanese tissue and rice paste. The strips rest in place between the glass and back mat. The spacer strips should be placed in the frame with the tissue at the corners facing the glass not the item being framed.
To assemble the matted item in the frame, prepare a padded work area. A piece of carpet or a mattress pad usually provides adequate padding, but special precautions may have to be taken when working with frames that have elaborate carvings or plaster decoration. Place the frame face down on the padded work table. Wash the glass with a weak solution of vinegar and water. Rinse the glass with water and dry with a soft cloth. Place the glass in the frame. Next rest the spacer or the front mat against the inside glass to separate the glass from the item being framed. The item is hinged to and protected by the back mat. Hold the back mat firmly in place with push points or brads pushed into the inside edge of the frame. The entire assembly should fit firmly against the inside lip of the frame. Seal out dirt with brown paper pasted on the back of the frame.
Matting and framing, like many skills, require practice. Mat a few non-historic materials before attempting to work on anything in your collection. By learning to properly mat and frame historic items with safe materials and methods, you can prevent unnecessary damage to the fragile paper and fabric objects that visually preserve and document the past.
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